W & E Glossary of Vintage and Textiles
- Winifred and Evalyn
- Sep 30
- 10 min read
At Winifred and Evalyn, we love the stories behind the heritage of the items we carry. Whether it's brand new block prints from India made by artists steeped in generations of the art, or whether it's an old soup tureen from Provence that we wish could talk! Everything has a story, and along the way, we've improved our know-how and vocabulary. Here are some words and phrases that have crept into our everyday life at W & E.
Vintage: At its root, the word comes from winemaking: a vintage wine is one made from grapes harvested in a particular year, carrying the character of that season. Over time, the term drifted into fashion, design, and collecting.
Vintage refers to items that are old enough to carry the style and spirit of a particular era, but not so old as to be considered antique. (Antiques are usually 100+ years old; vintage is more often 20–99 years old.)
The emphasis is less on strict age and more on distinctiveness, the item embodies the aesthetics, craftsmanship, or cultural vibe of its period.
"Vintage" also often implies rarity and desirability: not just old, but worth keeping.
Antique: An antique is generally defined as an object that’s at least 100 years old, valued for its craftsmanship, rarity, and connection to a particular historical period. Unlike “vintage,” which is about style and cultural memory, “antique” is about age first, then artistry and provenance.
Age benchmark: Most dealers, museums, and customs authorities use 100 years as the standard cutoff.
Authenticity: An antique isn’t just old; it usually has documented origin or recognizable design characteristics of its era.
Value: Antiques are prized because they embody history: materials, techniques, and aesthetics that often no longer exist in the same way.
Contrast with vintage: All antiques are vintage, but not all vintage pieces are old enough to be antiques.
Patina: Patina refers to the natural changes that occur on a material’s surface over time, creating beauty through age and use rather than diminishing it. It’s what makes vintage and antique objects feel alive with history.
On wood: the soft glow that comes from years of polishing, handling, and exposure to light—the deepening of color, the smoothing of edges touched by countless hands.
On metals: the greenish-blue bloom on copper or bronze (think of old church domes), or the warm, mellow tarnish on silver and brass.
On leather: the rich darkening, soft sheen, and subtle scuffs that make a chair or suitcase feel storied rather than worn.
In decor: patina is shorthand for authenticity—a visual record of time that cannot be faked (though some finishes do try).
We like to think of patina as the poetry of surfaces; it tells you something has lived, been loved, and endured.
Craquelure or Crazing: Craquelure refers to the fine network of cracks that develops on the surface of paintings, varnish, or glazed ceramics as they age. It’s not damage in the usual sense—it’s a natural result of time, materials, and environment, and in many ways, it’s part of an object’s fingerprint.
In paintings: Craquelure forms when paint layers, canvas, and varnish expand and contract differently with temperature and humidity over decades (or centuries). The resulting hairline cracks can look like spider webs, rivers, or even maps.
In ceramics and porcelain, It often appears as a delicate crackling in the glaze, giving the surface a textured, almost ethereal quality.
In decor and collecting: Craquelure is prized because it signals authenticity and age. For art historians, the pattern of craquelure can even help date and verify a painting’s origin.
It’s a beautiful paradox: a sign of fragility that makes something more valuable. Think of it as time writing its story across a surface.
Ephemera: At its root, it comes from the Greek ephemeros, meaning “lasting only a day.” Originally, it was used for things meant to be temporary or short-lived. In the world of collecting and decor, though, it has taken on a richer meaning:
Definition: Ephemera refers to paper objects not intended to last, but preserved because they capture a slice of history, culture, or memory.
Examples: postcards, letters, tickets, posters, advertisements, pamphlets, theater programs, calling cards, ration books, labels, or even handwritten notes.
Charm: Their value lies not in durability, but in their immediacy—they were made for the moment and accidentally became treasures.
In decor: Ephemera can be framed, layered into collages, tucked into vignettes, or simply collected in boxes as fragments of another time. They bring intimacy to vintage spaces because they were once held in someone’s hand.
Ephemera are the whispers of the past, mundane in their time, but extraordinary in what they reveal now.
Heirloom: At its most straightforward, an heirloom is an object passed down from one generation to the next, carrying with it family stories, memory, and often great sentimental (sometimes monetary) value.
Traditionally, heirlooms are things meant to last—jewelry, furniture, textiles, silver, art—items that hold not just material worth but a sense of continuity.
But beyond the literal:
In decor: An heirloom doesn’t have to belong to your family. It’s any piece that feels like it could, in other words, timeless, storied, durable enough to be cherished long after trends fade.
Emotional resonance: To call something an heirloom suggests permanence, memory, and love. It implies stewardship, as if the owner is simply the current custodian in a longer chain of care.
Modern use: “Heirloom” has also entered food and craft—heirloom tomatoes, heirloom weaving, heirloom quilts—implying heritage varieties or techniques preserved from the past.
It’s a word that reminds us objects aren’t just things; they’re vessels of identity and memory. An heirloom is proof that beauty and meaning can outlast us.
Tarnish is more than 'that stuff on silver'. Tarnish is the thin film or discoloration that naturally develops on metals (like silver, brass, or copper) when they react with air, moisture, or handling. Instead of remaining shiny, the surface deepens, darkens, or takes on soft hues.
But here’s the subtle beauty:
On silver: Tarnish often shows as a smoky gray or black film, muting the polish but adding depth.
On brass or bronze: It brings out warm browns and muted golds.
On copper: Tarnish eventually becomes verdigris, the greenish-blue bloom we see on old statues and domes.
In decor language, tarnish isn’t a flaw—it’s a time stamp. It shows that something is real, lived with, and unvarnished by too much restoration. Collectors often prefer pieces with tarnish left intact because it softens the glare of polish and highlights detail in carvings or engravings.
In short, tarnish is the quiet shadow of age on metal—a reminder that even hard surfaces mellow and transform with time.
Khadi: Khadi cloth is not just fabric—it’s history, politics, and craft woven together.
Definition: Khadi (from the Hindi khaddar) is a handspun and handwoven cloth, usually made of cotton, though silk and wool khadi also exist. It’s produced on a charkha (spinning wheel) and woven on simple looms, giving it a distinctive, slightly irregular texture.
Origin: Rooted in rural India, khadi was the common man’s cloth, durable, breathable, suited for India’s climate.
Historical Significance: Khadi became the symbol of India’s independence movement in the early 20th century. Gandhi championed it as a form of self-reliance and resistance against British industrial textiles. Wearing khadi was both a political statement and an economic lifeline for rural communities.
Aesthetic Qualities: It’s typically coarse but softens beautifully with use. Its weave can be plain or patterned, with slight variations that reveal the hand of its maker.
In decor and fashion: Khadi is prized for its natural, earthy character and ethical value, slow-made, sustainable, and deeply tied to heritage.
Khadi is cloth with conscience—every thread carries both the hand of the artisan and the spirit of independence.
Block Print: Block printing is a traditional handcraft technique for applying patterns to fabric using carved wooden blocks. Each block carries a design—geometric, floral, or figurative—that is manually stamped onto cloth, often in repeated sequences.
Technique:
The fabric is prepared, washed, and dried.
Artisans coat the carved block with natural or synthetic dye.
The block is pressed carefully onto the fabric, often using multiple blocks for multi-colored patterns.
Because it’s hand-applied, each repeat may have slight variations, adding to the charm and authenticity.
Aesthetic Qualities:
The resulting fabric features precise yet slightly irregular motifs, a hallmark of handmade craft.
Common patterns include florals, paisleys, vines, and traditional regional symbols.
Cultural & Historical Context:
In India, block printing has been practiced for centuries, with famous centers like Rajasthan (Sanganer, Bagru) and Gujarat.
Each region has its signature motifs, color palettes, and printing style, reflecting local culture and heritage.
Modern Use:
Today, block-printed fabrics are used for clothing, home textiles, upholstery, and decorative pieces, prized for craftsmanship, color, and heritage connection.
Block printing is a marriage of skill, patience, and artistry passed through generations. It's a tactile, hand-stamped process that transforms fabric into a canvas of heritage and design.
Gargoulette: A gargoulette is a traditional Mediterranean water jug made from porous terracotta. Its design allows for the evaporation of water through the clay, naturally cooling its contents—a technique ideal for the warm Provençal climate.
Design Features: Typically, a gargoulette has a narrow neck, a spout, and one or two handles. The body is often semi-glazed, showcasing earthy tones like ochre, green, or brown.
Historical Significance: Beyond its utilitarian function, the gargoulette has been a subject in art, notably in Cézanne's painting Le Cruchon Vert, highlighting its cultural importance in Provence.
Modern Usage: Today, these jugs are cherished as decorative pieces, adding rustic elegance to interiors. They're often found in antique shops and online marketplaces.
Faisselle: A faisselle is a traditional French cheese mold, primarily used in the making of soft cheeses like fromage blanc.
Design Features: These molds are typically small, cylindrical containers with perforated sides, allowing whey to drain from the curds. They're often made from glazed earthenware, showcasing the craftsmanship of Provençal potters.
Cultural Role: In Provence, faisselles are integral to the region's dairy traditions, reflecting the local emphasis on artisanal food production.
Collectible Value: Antique faisselles are sought after for their historical and aesthetic value, often featuring hand-painted designs that add to their charm.
Transferware is a classic term in ceramics, especially relevant when talking about vintage and provincial décor.
Definition: Transferware is ceramic tableware (plates, bowls, teapots, etc.) decorated by transferring a printed design from paper onto the pottery, rather than painting it by hand. This technique became popular in England in the late 18th century and spread across Europe.
Design & Aesthetics: Transferware often features intricate patterns, like pastoral scenes, florals, or historical motifs, usually in a single color (blue, red, green, or brown) on a white or cream background. The style evokes nostalgia, charm, and heritage.
Manufacturing Significance: This method allowed mass production of detailed designs while maintaining a refined, artisanal look. Each piece could look ornate without requiring a skilled painter for every item.
Collectible & Decor Value: Vintage transferware is highly prized for its beauty, storytelling quality, and historical resonance, often found in kitchen or dining collections, displayed as plates, teapots, or decorative accents.
In essence, transferware is history you can hold, which appeals so much to our aesthetic at W & E. It's a printed story on porcelain or earthenware, bridging art, craft, and everyday use.
Earthenware: Earthenware is pottery made from clay fired at relatively low temperatures (typically 1,000–1,150°C / 1,800–2,100°F). Unlike stoneware or porcelain, it remains porous unless glazed, making it ideal for both functional and decorative pieces.
Texture & Appearance:
Typically heavier and softer than stoneware, with a slightly coarse texture.
Colors range from red, brown, buff, or cream, depending on the clay and firing process.
Can be glazed or unglazed, with the glaze making it waterproof and adding color or sheen.
Uses & Functionality:
Historically used for jugs, plates, bowls, tiles, and cooking vessels.
Because it’s porous without glaze, it was often lined or coated, especially for liquids.
Aesthetic Qualities:
Earthenware carries a rustic, earthy charm. Its imperfections and natural variations are celebrated in vintage and provincial antiques.
Often hand-painted or decorated with motifs, sgraffito, or slip designs, giving it both character and regional identity.
Cultural & Historical Context:
One of the oldest pottery forms, dating back thousands of years globally.
In Provence and other rural regions, earthenware was practical yet often adorned with local decorative traditions, making it both useful and beautiful.
Earthenware is the approachable, earthy side of pottery; it's durable, handmade, and full of regional character, often carrying centuries of craft in its colors, textures, and designs.
Stoneware: Stoneware is a type of pottery fired at high temperatures (typically 1,200–1,300°C / 2,200–2,400°F), making it dense, hard, and non-porous even without glazing. It’s more durable than earthenware and less delicate than porcelain.
Texture & Feel: Stoneware has a substantial, weighty feel. Its surfaces can be smooth or slightly textured, and it often has a rustic, earthy aesthetic—perfect for functional jugs, crocks, plates, and bowls.
Glazing & Decoration:
It can be unglazed (showing natural clay color and texture), partially glazed, or fully glazed.
Decorative elements can include incised patterns, reliefs, or salt/glaze effects, giving each piece unique character.
Durability & Use: Because of its high firing, stoneware is robust, chip-resistant, and water-tight, historically used for kitchenware, storage crocks, and drinking vessels. Many vintage stoneware pieces are still fully functional today.
Aesthetic & Collectible Value: Stoneware conveys rustic elegance and authenticity. Its utilitarian origins give it a grounded charm, but the hand-finished details, glazes, or regional motifs elevate it to collectible decor.
Regional Examples: In Europe, stoneware was often produced in Germany, France, and England, with decorative blue cobalt patterns (like salt-glazed German steins) or simple Provencal designs for kitchen crocks.
Stoneware is the workhorse of pottery; it's sturdy, timeless, and quietly beautiful, marrying function with artisan craft.
Majolica: Majolica (also spelled maiolica) is earthenware coated with an opaque, tin-based white glaze, then painted with vibrant colors before a final firing. The glaze gives a luminous surface that makes the hand-painted designs pop.
Technique:
The potter forms the piece from clay and applies a smooth tin glaze.
Artists then paint directly onto the unfired glaze using mineral-based pigments.
The piece is fired again, fixing the colors under the glaze for a bright, glossy finish.
Aesthetic Qualities:
Majolica is known for bold, saturated colors—cobalt blues, deep greens, vibrant yellows, and rich reds.
Designs often include florals, fruits, animals, or narrative scenes, sometimes with raised relief for texture.
Surfaces can be glossy and almost jewel-like, catching light beautifully.
Historical & Regional Context:
Originating in Renaissance Italy, later spreading to Spain, France, and England.
In 19th-century England, Majolica became popular as decorative tableware, garden pottery, and vases, often featuring naturalistic motifs.
Decor & Collectible Value:
Majolica pieces are highly sought after for vivid color, craftsmanship, and historical appeal.
They often appear as centerpieces, decorative tiles, or sculptural pottery in vintage collections.
Care Note: The glaze is beautiful but can be brittle; care is needed to prevent chipping or scratching.
Majolica is vibrant, hand-painted ceramic with a jewel-like glow; a fusion of color, craft, and centuries of tradition.
Comments